CrazyIrishman

I don't know if anyone here knows anything about cars, but I'll go ahead and ask this question just in case. I have a 93 Ford Mustang LX, I bought it about 3 weeks ago. The other day it was having problems when it was idling it would stall out. Over the weekend I cleaned out the throttle body, replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires. However when I replaced the spark plugs the car wouldn't start. It turns over and it will stay on if you hold the key forward, but as soon as you release the key it shuts off. I was thinking that I might have broke the wiring harness on the distributer cap when I pulled one of the old spark plug wires out. But I have a dual coil pack on 4 cylinder...so technically if I unplug one of the distributors shouldn't it still run?

Boanerges

What kind of shape are your plug wires in? If you hold the key forward- are you refering to having the starter engaged or simply putting forward pressure on the ignition switch?

CrazyIrishman

I just replaced the spark plug wires so they're good. also I'm referring to having the starter engaged...I think lol. You know how you turn the key to turn the car on, you have to hold it forward to keep the car on. It's not the alternator either I just replaced that and I had the battery checked and that's fine too.

carolinasteve

Sounds like it could be a contact in the ignition switch itself,if your having to mantain pressure on it in order for the car to stay running, or a bad ground that got knocked loose while you were changing out the wires.But being an electrical issue, it could be anywhere. Here, if you don;t get the help you need here, go to www.stangnet.com (this is a Mustang enthusiast site,not a Christian site, so do not expect Christian type help, some may flame you,just ignore them, there are alot of good knowledgable people there). Regeister, then you can ask your question in the 2.3 tech section or the genereal tech section. I used to frequent that board alot, as I have a 93 GT and a 01 GT. You could solve all you troubles by dropping in a 5.0. in that thing. Another option would be to check you local library for a Haynes or Chiltons manual, or even a Ford mechanics guide.

Another thing you may need to do, if the car is still idling rough, is replace the PCV valve and clean out or replace the IAC(Idle air control valve. I had a 93 4 banger notch a long time ago, but I can't remember where either of these are located. The IAC on the 5.0 is located on the front of the throttle body) . Also if your car has a TPS(throttle position sensor), like the 5.0's, you should get a volt/ohm meter and see if it needs calibrating. the sensor located on top of the throttle body. You can instructions on how to do all of these things on that website. I hope that helped some. Good luck. OH, and if you don;t mind letting me know what it was when you figure it out,I'd appreciate it.

CrazyIrishman

definitely bro. I've actually already been looking at 5.0's there's a nice one on ebay, I'm just not sure if it will fit on my current tranny

Boanerges

hows your air cleaner- basic I know but sometimes overlooked. A good fuel system cleaner ( from tank to injector) can sometimes smooth out a rough idle- and watch where you by gas- some stations sell cheap low quality fuel - in my neck of the woods I don't by gas in an area low enought to flood ( ever fill your tank with water?)-

carolinasteve

You may be able to get a 5.0 with tranny from an Explorer or Lincoln for a good price. I'm not sure but I'm thinking the 5 speeds where the same for the 2.3 and 5.0, the T-5. really not sure about the automatics.

CrazyIrishman

That's okay I have a manual! I never buy a car that has auto (YUK) lol

Jasher

Haven't stayed up with technology, but I had that problem with my Stingray years ago. The ignition switch has four positions - accessories on - off - ignition and accessories on (run) - and - start. All contacts are maintained - except start which is spring loaded.

When you hold the switch in the start position - the starter runs and the ignition wiring bypasses a resistor, which reduces the voltage to the ignition coil. The extra current to the ignition system helps to get the car started. When you release the switch from the start position it falls back into the run and accessory position. This allows the second ignition circuit to go through the resistor, which reduces the voltage for normal operation. If this is the problem it is usually the ignition switch or the resistor.

CrazyIrishman

Well, I'll never know what was actually wrong with the car. I was praying about it all day yesterday, when I went home it started right up. Praise God!! Thanks for all your help guys!